Ground Zero, Rally, Heading West - New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania

AUGUST 22, 2010 - DAY 18 - NEW YORK, NY TO CLEARFIELD, PA

Sunday morning of the ride is always bittersweet and emotionally packed between the visit to Ground Zero and saying good-bye to new friends and old until next year.

We pack up and head out to the bikes early because we've got to load them up, grab some coffee, and line the bikes up on the roadway. They close off a lane or two on 7th Avenue for us, then once we take off it is closed all the way down through Times Square and to lower Manhattan. Most people are cheering us on, but there are again a few who see us as an annoyance to their morning routine. Some of the cabbies try to sneak along side us but luckily there are plenty of Road Captains and other riders who corral them to a stop to keep us all safe.

After we all park we gather round the PATH Station entrance and Richard stands and speaks of his experience on 9/11/01. He had been in one of the towers. He tells of his thoughts, his feelings, his ideas, his views of what was happening and what he saw. It was quiet as we all listened intently, remembering in our own minds where we were and what we were doing whether near or far from the attacks. When he was done, Nick spoke briefly for the Foundation, closing out this year's ride.

Usually people mill about for a brief time then take off for home, but this year many are sticking around for a rally that will take place just a block from where we had been standing. This is in protest for the Islamic Center and Mosque planned just blocks from where the terrorist attacks were carried out. There is a large group which grows as time goes on.

As we are standing around before moving up the block we see an older gentleman walking that way with carrying a sign that reads "Remember 9/11". Angel decides she needs to have her picture taken with him so she walks towards him, calling out. He stops and informs her that he already has two girlfriends and can't afford to have more. We can't help but laugh and tell him he now has two more, but we are his California girlfriends. He decides that's ok. So Angel takes a picture with him, we all chat, and he tells us that his name is Charlie and we can now say that we have met the oldest living sailor. We all say good-bye and move on. Later during the rally a woman taps me on the shoulder to tell me someone is calling out to me. I look across the street and see Charlie who smiles and waves. He makes my day.

There are local and national media everywhere, local politicians, union leaders, firefighters, family member of 9/11 victims, actors and musicians. To stand there and hear retired NYPD officer Daniel Rodriguez belt out God Bless America gave me chills. To hear politicians take a stand for something they believe is right rather than what won't "rock the boat" was refreshing and left me wishing we had such people in California. The entire rally was well attended, civilized and controlled, very passionate, and well planned. As we left the area I found myself walking in front of actor Tony Lo Bianco whom I admire. I turn around, shake his hand, and thank him for his stand. He sees my 9/11 Ride t-shirt and thanks the group of us for our actions as well. Then we see Charlie again and we wave good-bye and tell him we will see him next year, and he agrees.

I am not going to politicize here about the cause because I don't want this to be a forum for arguments. Obviously I attended the rally and so my views can easily be determined. I also feel very strongly about them.

During the rally it rains off and on, but is warm enough that by the end I am dry once again. A quick lunch and then off to the bikes to begin our journey westward and home. We are feeling a bit sad and definitely melancholy. As we head out I see a Port Authority sergeant in his car just ahead. I roll up and ask directions to the Holland Tunnel. He tells us to follow. At the next intersection I explain that I am retired, we shake hands and he wishes us well.

This time the trip through the tunnel is not any fun and is filled with cars, heat and exhaust. I have looked up directions but in written form and not on a map, which is easier for me. Angel has her buddy Tom (Tom-Tom navigation) attached to her windshield to help lead us out. After we exit the tunnel and head to the list of roads to take you in differing directions, I look up and see the correct number for the highway we need. Angel is to my right and slightly ahead, staring intently at Tom. When she motions for us to exit right I try to get her attention to veer left but she doesn't see or hear me. We wind up taking a scenic tour of Jersey City, and it is not one found on any tourist maps. Good thing I didn't let her go off alone.

Now, I know nav systems are great but I am not a fan. I am old school and prefer looking at a map, visually seeing where I need to go, and then remembering it as I go along. But when you have no map and don't know where you are they can be a lifesaver. However, my pet peeve is that you don't rely on them, they are just a tool and you cannot blindly follow. This is one of those times....

As we head out of Jersey City we cross a different bridge than planned. This one has a ribbed metal roadway and grabs our front tires, jerking our bikes as we ride. Not enjoyable. Then once we find our correct highway we have to stop for gas and a pit stop, pulling into a Shell at Rahway. The bathroom was so bad you honestly had to hold your breath. We couldn't wait to leave, and several other did too without using it.

Yesterday we cancelled our hotel reservation for tonight in Grove City due to the fact we would be leaving so late in the day because of the rally. We plan to just ride across as much of Pennsylvania as we can and then stop. We don't want to ride at night and risk coming across deer, or them us.

Though we have been warm and have our mesh jackets on we are still a bit damp from the rain. We didn't realize that we would be riding through the mountains, the Poconos, and begin to feel chilled. But all was good once we dropped back down. But we have decided that the truckers on I-80 are maniacs.

When we made another gas/pit stop we checked with my Droid and found a Holiday Inn Express in Clearfield, PA and booked a room. It was dark as we arrived and after unloading our gear we headed out to dinner. As we got out of the elevator a family with young children got in and we heard them state that their room was next to ours. We inquired at the desk if we could move. Two exhausted adults do not want to risk kid noise.

Dinner was a quick walk across the Car Wash/Pet Wash parking lot (yes, you read that right) to Burger King and by the time we returned they had the perfect room for us, bottom floor corner room. Though we don't want to be heading for home we are very happy with our room and settle in for the night.

Today's stats: 271 miles and 6 hours

Virginia, Washington, D.C., Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York - 9/11 Ride

AUGUST 21, 2010 - DAY 17 - ARLINGTON, VA TO NEW YORK CITY, NY

Angel and I had a plan. Rather than wait in the very long line in the lobby for the little Starbucks kiosk we would just ride over to the mall down the street where there is a store with very few patrons early on a Saturday morning. It was a good plan.

But as we headed there I half questioned the direction I was heading and Angel thought we needed to turn sooner. We had to turn back around. Then I pointed where I thought the Starbucks was but didn't see it and rode past while Angel parked, because it was there. I didn't go too far and just turned around and rode the very short distance in the wrong direction. If all that wasn't enough then Angel couldn't find her wallet so I went in to order. They had no water bottles so I got glasses of water to go along with the food and lattes. On a bike.

When I returned to the bikes Angel fit the four cups into a saddlebag, secure enough to not spill. I was holding the bag with the bananas and breakfast food when I came upon the perfect solution: I placed the handles over my flag post on the back. We then rode off to the staging area at the Pentagon with our Starbucks addiction proudly on display.

After the usual organization, announcements and prayer there is a bagpiper playing as we all pass by the firetruck with the raised flag as we head across the bridge and into Washington, D.C. and eventually up the Beltway. It is a beautiful morning and warm enough that we are wearing tank tops and no jackets at 7 a.m.

Now let me just take the time to clarify some things here. So far on our trip we have been very diligent about safety. We have worn our full gear - full-face helmets, jackets and chaps no matter the weather. But the 9/11 Ride is police escorted, meaning we are the only vehicles on the road. So we dress for the heat, take our chances and wear our shorter helmets, no chaps and no jackets. Dumb, I'd say yes. But definitely cooler and more comfortable.

Our first stop is at Maryland House. There we enjoy the no-line in the women's restroom while the men have to wait in a long line. We also walk around looking at some of the other bikes and figuring out some of the personalized plates. It never ceases to amaze me how many have painted tributes to the 9/11 victims, and how different so many of them are.

Once we saddle up again we are all off to Delaware. When we first exit we must gas up the bikes then ride into Mike's Famous Harley-Davidson for lunch, maybe some shopping, and definitely for a break. When we pull up we are parked right behind the Canadians we met in 2007, Lou and John. These great guys are riding with their favorite girls - their daughter's. The ladies are having a terrific time!

Each break is another opportunity to meet new people, get to know others better, and look around at all the bikes. I see a car with Gold Star plates and wind up meeting the mother. She is a Blue Star and Gold Star mom, both sons being Marines. She is amazing.

As we are all preparing to head out a woman walks up and asks if I really have any kids. I tell her I do, and that I have three. She laughs because she has read my license plate, "whatkdz", and says she feels the same when she's riding, and that hers are all back home while she is gone as well. We also get comments when people notice that we have California plates.

The next stop is in Linden, New Jersey. But the amazing part of the stop is that the City of Linden and the manager of Appleby's put on the stop for us. Citizens are there making food and ensuring there is plenty of water; we can use the facilities at the restaurant; and there are displays and performances put on by townspeople. And they do all of this for us.

While on this stop we run into more people we recognize from last year's ride, we meet new people who are just there to see all of the motorcycles, and little kids are getting their pictures taken with the bikes. And we are filled with anticipation because it's a short jaunt into New York City from here, though it takes a while to get through all the traffic.

Finally we head out and the excitement has us grinning from ear to ear. I am dancing and singing along to my music as we wind through the city streets. As we come upon the bridge and see the New York skyline for the first time I lift my camera and start shooting pictures. Back in 2007 when I was riding behind Lou I saw him with a camera on a lanyard just blindly taking pictures. Now I do it. I may have to delete a lot of asphalt and sky photos but somehow I often get plenty of good ones to suffice.

However, the first thing I think of after I see the skyline and before the first click of the camera is what it used to look like. There is that split second that everything flashes through my brain and then I focus on taking pictures of the Empire State Building.

I think the most difficult part of us entering Manhattan is getting into and through the Holland Tunnel and today is no exception. But it is a thrill. Cars are lined up at a long, dead stop to our right. Some people are outside their vehicles staring or even waving, while some lean out their windows. Still others are sitting in their cars on their phone, no doubt complaining about the horrific fact they are stuck in the worst of all traffic jams.

But once we get into the tunnel and keep a slow and steady pace it becomes fun. Just like little kids who hold their breath in a tunnel bikers like to play games too. I can't resist, and despite the heat from the pipes already trying to burn my legs, I rev up my engine repeatedly, letting the noise reverberate in the long, enclosed tube of concrete. Who says fun and games are just for children?

We finally leave the tunnel and swing out onto West, along the waterfront and past the Intrepid, then along the streets of New York heading toward Times Square. It seems that it is mostly the tourists who are enamored with us, taking pictures of us as we pass, so I take pictures of them. But there are also quite a few New Yorkers who are there specifically for us, holding signs or flags and cheering us on. Then there are those natives who are just annoyed that we are in their way, but we persevere.

Finally we turn onto 7th Avenue, looking down into Times Square. I am directed to a sidewalk and immediately drive up onto it for our own parking spots for the night. Even better is the fact that we are positioned right in front of the stage where the presentations and concert will take place. They park the bikes on the streets and sidewalks around our hotel and even block off an entire block for us. This is a big deal.

As Angel and I drag our bags across to the Sheraton we realize just how hot and tired we are, and that the activities are supposed to start up in only 15 minutes. I shower quickly and get back out on the sidewalk where Angel finally meets me.

We get a big laugh when they draw the raffle ticket for a new motorcycle because the wife answers the phone and hangs up, thinking it's a prank. Then we get to hear Mark Wills sing again, which was just as great the second time. And finally we decide to get food. I actually try something I have never eaten, sauerkraut. You would think that at some point in 50 years I would have tried it before but I hadn't. What's more amazing to me was that I liked it. See, you can teach an old dog new tricks.

And speaking of old, I don't know if it's because we are older or just because we've "been there, done that" when it comes to Manhattan, but it seems each year we do less and go to bed earlier. The first year we hit the fun places and got to bed at some horrible hour. Last year it was around 1 a.m. when we turned in. This year we are turning into pumpkins a little earlier. Or maybe we just got smarter and realized the early mornings feel better with sleep first.

Tomorrow morning we ride to Ground Zero and eventually head west.

Today's stats: 252 miles and 11 hours

Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia ~ The 9/11 Ride

AUGUST 20, 2010 - DAY 16 - SOMERSET, PA TO ARLINGTON, VA

So far on our trip between the daily medication and my cruise control the pain in my hands has been under control and not too bothersome. But I know that is about to change. In large group rides you cannot use the cruise control, and there is a lot of clutching and braking. These are the little things that cause me extreme pain, and why you generally won't see me riding around town. But this is also the time when I will use my discomfort as a reminder of all that the innocent victims of 9/11 had to suffer and remember that I can tolerate anything for such a short time after all that was sacrificed in the name of duty by so many.

The mornings of this ride are early and the nights usually late. Today is no exception. We tried to be organized and ready the night before but somehow this morning did not go as smoothly as planned. But we eventually got our act together and rode over to the Harley shop and lined up. There was even free breakfast. Well, that's what I called the cup of coffee and it seemed good enough at the time.

All of the bikes line up in rows behind Highland H-D in preparation to take off. It is well organized and all the people are milling about, getting to know the people they are now parked beside or saying good morning to those they already know. It is blue skies and sunshine and warm so early that we all know it's going to be a hot one. As difficult as the heat can be I will take it over last year's pouring rain.

Once all the announcements are made there is a prayer for the safety of the ride and in remembrance of all those who lost their lives on 9/11/01, especially all of the emergency service personnel and the people of United 93. Then it is kick stands up.

We first ride out past the site of the United 93 crash before passing through the Pennsylvania countryside and on into Cumberland, Maryland for our first break. There are gentle, green rolling hills, with people outside their homes, their farms and their businesses to cheer us, to thank us, and mostly to support us as we ride to remember. These people come out to wave, give us a thumbs up, or hold up flags and they tear at our heartstrings, give us the chills, and re-confirm our faith in America and it's patriotic people.

In my three years to do this ride I have yet to ever find the words to truly express what you see as you ride or how it makes you feel. I can only suggest you experience it. There is nothing else like it and you will be changed.

As we are beginning to enter Cumberland, and just before the first gas station, stands a man on the side of the road. He looks as though he could possibly be a WWII veteran. He looks determined, proud and stands alone waving a flag to honor all of us as we ride by. My gut instinct is to pull my bike over immediately, jump off and give him a great big hug. I ride past with tears in my eyes.

It seems as if the entire town of Cumberland is outside as we ride through. And as usual, there are the guys with the red, white and blue body paint who are the most animated and loudest as we pass by, giving out hi-fives.

As we approach Allegheny College the song "God Bless the USA" begins to play in my ear, and I can see the people lining the drive for us with their American flags. Most are military organizations, including the Marines from the VFW. I get the chills.

After we park it is nice to see everyone walking through the crowd of bikes and all the Veteran's meeting and greeting one another. There are also outhouses and bottles of water available for us, but not together. Although eventually one does lead to the other.

The stop is brief but a welcome relief and then we saddle back up and head out. Once again the ingress and egress is well organized. None of this could ever be accomplished without the long hours put in by all the members of the America's 9/11 Foundation. I am always amazed to realize just how much work goes into such a huge event, and how dedicated all these people are.

It is getting hot out but the countryside is beautiful and we are enjoying the ride. While I listen to my music I like to sing out loud and "dance" on the bike. Angel will occasionally stick out her hand as though holding a mic for me. We ride side by side down the road chatting, laughing and having fun.

By the time we reach Hagarstown, Marlyland for lunch we are burned out from the heat and water is at the top of our to do list after gassing up the bikes. Though we haven't eaten we can't even finish our lunch because of the heat, but we do eat something. As we get ready to head out again I am feeling light headed and have to sit down. When I realize that isn't solving anything I head over to the buckets of drinks. There I reach in and scoop out some ice and water and begin dousing myself with it to bring down my body heat. It helps immediately and between that and the three bottles of cold water I drink I am road ready once again.

We are now riding near the front of the pack rather than the back where we had been. This is because we are part of a group that will tour the Pentagon as soon as we arrive in Arlington.

One of our favorite portions of this day is when we ride through Leesburg, Virginia. The firetruck has the ladders up and flag draped over the roadway when we first begin to enter town. This is the hometown of Ted and Lisa, the founders of the organization and this ride, and the way the community welcomes us it is obvious that all the people here are amazing. They are outside waving flags, cheering, lining the streets along the homes and businesses, and you feel genuine excitement and pride emanating from them as you pass by.

As we approach Arlington we pass by the Army base of Ft. Meyers, the USMC Iwo Jima memorial, and the Arlington National Cemetery, and then look out to our left and see Washington, D.C. at the same time. It amazes me every time to be surrounded by such important fixtures of our country.

As everyone else heads to the hotel, showers and food we head to the Pentagon. I took the tour back in 2007 but Angel never had. I found the tour hadn't really changed but was glad to be there again. But by the time we are done and we gas up, we are more than beat. We get checked in and take turns with the shower, feeling human once again. We are too tired to leave for dinner so we grab food downstairs at the available BBQ set up specifically for our group.

We have the pleasure of enjoying the company of new friends. It is always so great to meet new people, especially people who share the love of riding, many who share job experiences, and mostly people who share the deep desire to honor the memory of those lost on 9/11.

As the night slows down we also get to be entertained by country singer Mark Wills. It was great and he spent time meeting those of us who approached him. Then everyone headed upstairs to the bar for more socializing before turning in to get ready for the early morning.

Tomorrow we begin at the Pentagon and end in Manhattan. It's another big day.

Today's stats: 218 miles and 9 hours

Somerset

AUGUST 19, 2010 - DAY 15 - SOMERSET, PA

Today is a big day. First and foremost it is Angel's 40th birthday! It is also the day the 9/11 Ride begins and everyone arrives in Somerset.

After breakfast we grab a taxi to take us to the salon for our mani-pedi's, my gift to Angel as well as myself. Now I had made these appointments well in advance and put the info into my phone. Turns out when I rescheduled I deleted the correct salon and kept the wrong one, so that is where we show up. That isn't even the crazy part because it was quickly realized, at least by us. But the blonde bimbo receptionist, yep I said it, was not capable of connecting the dots. It was all we could do to not bust up laughing in astonishment after unsuccessfully trying to get her to understand.

So we head out and walk up the hill to the center of downtown, with it's brick buildings and old houses, to the correct salon. We love it. Although it is always great to just sit back, relax and be pampered, it also felt kind of strange. I think we have just gotten used to constantly being on the go. It was difficult, but we struggled through all the relaxing! Actually, I think we both could have easily fallen asleep in the chairs.

Once we are done we head back down the hill and into the H-D dealership to check on our oil changes. Seems I had some extra issues. Apparently my Y-Pipe was so badly cracked that I couldn't have returned home with it. So I pay for repairs. It was then brought to my attention that I really need a new front tire too. I chose to go to lunch instead. But when I got off the bike a block away I noticed not only did the front tire look rather balding but as I ran my hand across it I felt a flat spot. So as soon as lunch was complete I was outside and heading back to the H-D dealership for a new front tire. The guys in service at Highland H-D are friendly, helpful and just all around great. I cannot thank Craig and Nate enough for all they did!

This is also the day the Patriot Guard Riders (PGR) provide escorted rides to Shanksville and the United 93 Memorial crash site. We decide to get there before the crowds so we go out on our own. This is my third time to visit the crash site and each time the area for viewing has changed as they prepare to build a memorial. However, the American flag that stands in the ground where the plane hit the earth is unmoved.

I have also felt different emotions each time I visit. The first year was just a rush of emotions, especially as I listened to the Park Ranger describe the actual events pieced together from phone calls and the black box. Last year I felt as if I was riding into a heavy blanket as I neared the site, as though I could feel the souls of all those brave, innocent victims resting on my shoulders. And the weight was lifted as I rode away. This year my stomach began to twist and knot up as I arrived. I literally felt pain, while my heart felt as though it had slowed. This time the feeling didn't leave immediately as I finally rode away, but was gradual. However, by the time we returned to Somerset I was feeling better.

Our next adventure was trying to find Angel some O'Douls to drink tonight for her birthday. We visit the restaurants for a six-pack but they only have beer. Finally, we hit a liquor store and buy a case, since that's the only way they sell it. She only wants a couple of bottles but has decided the rest will be a donation to the hotel bar. It was quite a sight to see a case strapped to the luggage rack of a bike!

When we finally arrive back at the hotel the first group is lining up for their visit to the crash site. We put our things away and get ready to help with the changing of the flag behind the hotel. It is a very large flag pole that has been dedicated to the heroes of United Flight 93 by the people of Somerset, and the exceptionally large flag is now tattered. Angel and I do photo duty for the men chosen to lower, remove, replace and raise the flags. It is good to see the respect and care they take with the flags and I am glad to be there to watch this ceremony.

Then it was time to go out for Angel's birthday dinner. Everyone had raved about the Pine Grill. The food was fine but the service left quite a bit to be desired. Not what we were hoping for. But as we walked back to the hotel the bad service was forgotten when we tried to pick up the birthday cake. Seems Dairy Queen couldn't find it. There was a lot of confusion and it seemed like the night was continuing on a downhill trend, when suddenly the manager asked what type of cake it was. When Angel described it he said he had only one like that and it was a birthday cake but it did not have the name "Angel". Instead it said "Happy Birthday Broad". Seems one of the guys had it set up as a joke. We laughed the rest of the way to the hotel.

When we got there we headed to the bar where "T" the bartender helped out with the candles & the DJ so we could deliver Angel her cake with the entire bar singing to her. It was a fun night with everyone sending her birthday wishes and sharing in the cake.

But as full a day as it was, and as fun a night as it was becoming, we all had to turn in at a decent time. No turning into pumpkins for the two of us! Tomorrow morning comes early as we need to be lined up at the Harley shop by 7 a.m.

Somerset

AUGUST 18, 2010 - DAY 14 - SOMERSET, PA

For a lazy day we managed to get up and start doing much of nothing at an early hour. It seems strange to take our time having breakfast, showering and just trying to decide what to do with the day.

However, there is one thing that will get done today and that is Angel getting her hair cut, though not until this evening. She donated her hair to Locks of Love just days before the trip. Unfortunately, this meant taking off on vacation with just a blunt, short haircut. She has not been happy about it at all. But then that is a common thread between us as several months ago when I got my hair cut it was layered, despite my directly asking that it not be and even explaining why. Still it will not braid properly and this has been a problem every day we have been on the road.

But before all that we finish the laundry and clean up our bikes. Now don't think us fanatical like so many of the men with Harley's. We are tired, our bikes are extremely dirty, and it would take hours to clean them properly. So instead we give them a good "wipe down" type of cleaning. At least as good can be expected in a little under an hour. And when we finish we do feel better about how they are looking, even if it isn't up to par.

Then it's off to find lunch. We came across a little place called J.B. Hawg's. It's like a drive-thru BBQ joint but with a couple of picnic tables too. Go there. The food is good. Really. And the people who own it are just great too.

Finally we just check out the town, like Wal-Mart and Tractor Supply Co., and then we take the bikes to Highland H-D for the oil change that I had scheduled well in advance. After that Angel was off for her new do, which looked great when she returned. So off to dinner we went, just down the street again, only this time to Trax. Kind of a sports bar and grill, and the food and drink were good.

As the evening wore on we began to notice a few people involved with the 9/11 Ride were showing up to get ready for the event. We are getting excited that everyone will be here by tomorrow evening. We are looking forward to renewing friendships forged by this great cause, making new ones, but mostly to remind ourselves and others about the sacrifices made in the name of duty on that fateful day almost nine years ago. And to honor all those whose lives were lost by such cowardly acts of terrorism.

Ohio, West Virginia and Pennsylvania

AUGUST 17, 2010 - DAY 13 - WESTERVILLE,OH TO SOMERSET, PA

For the first time on our trip we actually got up and hit the road early with the commuters at 7:20 a.m. I think we have both forgotten that the rest of the people have a routine and jobs to go to. It was a nice cool morning where we actually put a sweatshirt on under our mesh jackets, but not cold.

As we headed out we got to travel through a couple of small towns, Pataskala and Etna, Ohio. These are quaint towns with roads called Main Street, brick churches, and homes reminiscent of the Andy Griffith Show.

We have learned that as much as we prefer the back roads and scenic routes that they are not always conducive to schedules. And since we are hoping to make Somerset early enough in the afternoon to allow time for laundry and such, we hit the interstate once again. But what amazes us both is that their commute traffic in no way compares to that back home. We are also looking for breakfast, namely in the form of a Starbucks but to no avail. We have to gas up anyway so after about 30 miles we grab coffee and a muffin at the gas station.

As we make our way east we notice that the Ohio scenery begins to change, becoming slow rolling hills and trees are sprouting up. As we are nearing the West Virginia border we are once again maneuvering around road work and pass an H-D dealership, which I had wished I'd seen quicker. Suddenly Angel rides up to me to tell me her Navigation system is saying we missed a turn off to another highway. And since communication at high speeds with loud noises and full helmets is difficult we pull off at the next exit.

There I explain there is no turn off except the exit at Somerset and pull out an actual paper map and show her. We even reconfirm with my Droid and Google. At this point we have a great opportunity, so we turn around and go back to Harley.

After Angel found a shirt to add to her collection we returned to the bikes and encounter a gentleman who notices our plates and begins chatting with us about how wonderful it is to go out and experience life on a bike. He told us that whenever he goes out riding he never makes reservations and this sometimes upsets his friends. But he explained that you just can't schedule everything or where a road might take you. His example: "What if I am riding along and see a sign for a two headed goat? I am going to turn up that new road because I may never have an opportunity to see another two headed goat and I don't want to pass this by."

We couldn't agree more, and feel a bit guilty about our pre-reserved hotels and days that time is more important. But we also realize that 28 days isn't enough time to do it all. Heck, I'm not even sure an entire summer on the road could be enough.

We travel through an extremely small section of West Virginia, but it is a small town where part of the "downtown" is nestled along the shore of the river, the brick buildings adding color along with the lush green foliage. The waterfront can even be seen from the bridge as we pass by.

Suddenly we are in Pennsylvania. I don't think we would even need a sign. It seems like endless rolling hills, covered in trees, with occasional squares of green grasses. There are towns, along with their pointed steeples, poking up from the valleys and along the rivers. Reality is even more beautiful than any picture or movie you have ever seen.

Finally we arrive at the Turnpike exit, right at our hotel. We are so happy to be there, feeling like this is the halfway point of our trip while also giving us the opportunity to unwind, unpack, relax and stay put for a few days.

First on the agenda is laundry. Although our room door needs to almost be kicked in just to get it open, it is at least very near the laundry facility and this is a good thing. Our only other big plans were dinner, at Maggie May's, just down from the Highland H-D dealership. Here we learned that restaurants are where you go to buy six-packs of beer, though neither of us do. They have a whole refrigerator section like we are used to seeing at the grocery store. And after dinner we stop at Dairy Queen to order Angel's birthday ice cream cake as we walk back to the hotel.

All and all it has been a very good day and we are looking forward to the next couple as well.

Today's Stats: 252.5 miles and 6 hours

Illinois, Indiana and Ohio

AUGUST 16, 2010 - DAY 12 - URBANA, IL TO WESTERVILLE, OH

Angel started her morning cruising the web to play catch up on what's been going on in the world, while I chatted with everyone hanging out in the breakfast room. And since Sports Center was on the TV there too I (unfortunately) learned that the Padres are still putting the SF Giants through their paces. But at least there was good news in that the 49ers beat the Colts in their pre-season game. That's the only news I caught up on.

Since we had appointments at the local salon / spa we knew we wouldn't leave till late. We planned from the beginning that today would strictly be a destination day, so it was super slab all the way.

However, I've got to say that the majority of the ride we were still just passing farmland, and again mostly corn. I have come to the conclusion that the mid-west is one big cornfield and must provide all the corn across the nation. But I did wish that we'd had time to stop by the Wilbur Wright Museum, Indiana Basketball Hall of Fame, and the Colts stadium.

We did manage to stop at Starbucks before heading out of Urbana, along with the local H-D dealership. And we were more than grateful to the Richmond, IL, dealership that let us in to use their restroom even though they had closed just five minutes before.

But other than pit stops we pushed all day to make it to the Columbus, OH area where family and dinner are waiting for us. And what a dinner it was. There is nothing like green beans with potatoes and bacon to bring back those home cooking memories. And I finally got to taste some of that corn I've been seeing, sliced fresh off the cobs. No wonder they grow so much of it around here, it's delicious. Add that to the rest of the meal and wash it down with iced tea and you have the perfect meal spent with wonderful family. What better way to end a day?

Tomorrow we head to Pennsylvania and our road trip break. We chose to give ourselves a few days off prior to the start of the America's 9/11 Ride, kind of like a vacation within a vacation. We are planning to get up early so we can hit the road and make the most out of our break. We've already scouted the closest Starbucks location for breakfast!

Today's stats: 7.5 hours and 333 miles

Iowa and Illinois

AUGUST 15, 2010 - DAY 11 - WEST DES MOINES, IA TO URBANA, IL

Boy did I call that one. We each slept like a rock and slept in later than expected. We waved good-bye to Dan-the-Man at Reception as we headed out to load down our bikes. We had already made lists of all the H-D dealerships to hit along our way and were excited to hit the road. Suddenly we realized it was Sunday and we were not in California. We pulled out my H.O.G. Atlas and, sure enough, of the six we had located only one was open today. And reality turned out that we were an hour too late once we arrived in that town as it had already closed.

So we shrug and head a couple blocks in the wrong direction for breakfast. We have once again located a Starbucks. We can tell that this is the beginning of a great day.

We go south on I-35 to the next exit and head east on I-235 until Hwy 163, where we encounter all of the State Fair traffic. For being one of, if not the largest State Fair, I do have to say that the driving conditions were much better than anything I've ever seen in California for any sort of event.

As we have seen for the past two or three days, the Mid-West is filled with fields of corn, corn and more corn. However, I also keep seeing one other row crop that I cannot identify. But I honestly didn't realize just how many states grow corn everywhere that there aren't buildings. And believe you me, most of these states are not buildings.

As we headed out along Hwy 163 we returned to the fun of meandering through the small towns as we had done in the beginning, before heat and exhaustion had delayed us and made for rough conditions.

Our first foray is to Pella, IA, a cute little Dutch community. Oh, they have their obligatory Wal-Mart on the outskirts, but they have done a beautiful job of focusing on their history and heritage. And as we first begin to enter town I look off to my right and see a beautiful regal looking boxer, sitting on his front porch alone, just looking out to the roadway and watching the world go by. I immediately think of Charlie, my daughter Melissa's boxer who has spent the summer at my house. They just moved up to Portland, Oregon on Friday and won't be home when I return.

As we ride past some of these Iowa farmlands we can still see plenty of flooding. There are trees down in rivers and creeks. Water reaches out across it's banks enveloping telephone poles and stopping just before our roads. However, though the roads we are on are dry you can easily see all the dirt still on them, left by the high flood waters such a short time ago. You can also see the damage to so many acres of crops, and those that are still being destroyed. It is so sad to see, and especially to know of the hardships that will befall these farmers all across this state.

As we pass through Ottumwa it is easy to see why they call it the City of Bridges. The river cuts through the town, making it necessary for so many bridges to be built to connect the streets. We get to where we are leaving 163 for Hwy 34 East when we need a pit stop. The snaggle-toothed clerk at the local Kum & Go recounts how once a customer asked her and another employee to take a photo with the store sign, saying his buddies at home with never believe "this". Then she takes the time to show us all sorts of items for sale with their logo, from cups, t-shirts, flip-flops, hats and such. We leave almost doubled over laughing as we walk back to the bikes.

We wind our way southeast, enjoying our trips off the main highway and through the quaint small towns with their historic buildings and town squares. I love these places and wish I could just stop, take a seat and watch life pass by. But the reality is that by the time we stop finish lunch in Fairfield, IA, it is 3 p.m. We have spent 5 hours on the road and only traveled 135 miles. The only thing we are upset about is knowing that this means we can no longer take all of the side trips because we still have four hours of travel time left to go.

When we cross into Illinois I finally find a sign amongst the fields which identifies that mystery crop for me: soybeans. And it appears that this state has changed many of it's corn field to soybean fields because the latter seems to have the occasional single stalk of corn peeking out above the plants.

However, we do have one more brief stop to make despite claiming to be done. This stop is in Monmouth, IL. It is the birthplace of Wyatt Earp. There are very few signs to send you in the right direction, but it is on 3rd street past the city square and to the right.

After seeing the house and corral we gas up and head out. We are making better time now, having covered another 120 miles in only two hours. However, there are still two and a half hours to go so we push on. We plan for a halfway stop for liquids and then hope to arrive by 8 p.m.

As we are closing in on Urbana the sun moves into our mirrors. It was once again a deep orange and reminds me of something out of a sci-fi movie because I can see the orb in each of my mirrors, as though there are two suns. Just as it drops below the horizon we have but a couple miles to go, which is good since we are both still wearing sunglasses.

We get off the bikes with smiles on our faces. We have had a great day of riding and feel like we are back on track. It has got to be the combination of no threats of foul weather, visiting small towns along the way, and having beautiful blue skies that held just enough cotton balls clouds and the gentle breeze that moved them along.

Our hotel almost looks deserted by looking at the parking lot and that is fine with us.
It is centrally located, has a free breakfast, and we are already used to hearing the highway noise so we will have no problem sleeping again tonight.

Tomorrow we have salon appointments starting at 10 a.m. Even on the road a girl has got to keep up her rituals. So we will load up then head out after breakfast. Once we are done we must head straight to Columbus, OH, with our only detours the H-D dealerships to stop & shop.

Then again, maybe it's visiting Starbucks again and the knowledge we will have both Starbucks and H-D shopping tomorrow that makes the end of our day so wonderful.

Today's stats: 382.7 miles and 10 hours

Nebraska and Iowa

AUGUST 14, 2010 - DAY 10 - OMAHA, NE TO WEST DES MOINES, IA

I awoke in time to thank Ajax for her hospitality before she headed off to work. Sure wish we had more time to visit and get to know her, but already know she is a terrific hostess and wonderful person!

As we all got up and made our way to the living room we also made our way to coffee and computers. Clean made the true observation about how it looked as though we were engaged in our own internet cafe. The great thing was the ability to have laundry going at the same time.

While we typed and chatted away we came up with a great idea about a custom patch for the ripped pocket on my jeans. Clean then set about designing and creating the patches. I tell you, he and Ajax are full service hosts. As we packed up he even sent us off with IWMC pins and mugs, and even had Yeti and Hillbilly pick us up for the ride east, first meeting up with more River City members.

As we headed out with them we had to slow for a creature waddling across the cloverleaf of the interstate, and I swear it was a beaver. Then as we rode along we kept seeing this chain of gas station / convenience stores called Kum & Go. Really. I think it was the first thing Angel and I mentioned to each other when we got off the bikes. But since this is a family-read blog I will leave it at that.

The River City IWMC members were heading to Iowa for a meeting with that chapter so we rode with them all to Darrel's Place in Hamlin, IA, for lunch and the meeting. There we learned that they are famous for their fried tenderloin sandwich. Yep, that is fried pork tenderloin. Don't knock it till you've tried it!

When it was time to head out we said good-bye to the River City guys and saddled up with those from Iowa. They took us east on Hwy 44, with a stop in Grimes at Fat Boyz for a soda. From there Turd lead us down the road to our hotel and provided us with his number in case of emergency, as well as the name and location of a good Italian restaurant just down the road.

Dan-the-Man was working the counter at the Sheraton in West Des Moines and had the perfect job for his personality. He made checking in fun and we all had a good laugh. After we got settled we headed out, asking him and the two young women at the front desk where they suggested we eat. I think we had more fun listening to them banter back and forth than caring about what they actually said.

We followed Turd's advice and had a great dinner at Biaggi's. We knew it was going to be good before we even walked in because the parking lot was full and people were sitting outside waiting. But since it was just us two we were able to take the last two seats at the bar and get served quickly. As busy as the bar staff was they were still fun and friendly.

After returning to our hotel, some good conversation and hot showers to remove the road, we settled into each of our beds. The Sheraton always has great beds. They are full of fluffy pillows, a soft, plush mattress and a downy comforter. After such a wonderful day full of great people, it's gonna be a good sleep-filled night too.

South Dakota and Nebraska

AUGUST 13, 2010 - DAY 9 - YANKTON, SD TO OMAHA,NE

I awoke first this morning, something that has become habit just this past week. I felt like I had been hit by a Mack truck, then backed over again. It was going on nine o'clock and I was pretty sure breakfast ended about nine. I looked over to Angel's bed and saw she still had the sheets over her head. It appeared as if our defense against the crickets worked, or so we hoped. I woke Angel up to see if she wanted to eat, and we both dressed and staggered to the breakfast room. It was the usual carb affair with waffles, oatmeal or cereal. We were so bleary eyed and exhausted we could hardly see a thing.

It looked blustery outside and we were too tired to try and rush out of there before a storm. But we finally dragged ourselves back to the room and began packing. Despite the news reports in the breakfast room about storms along our route we received a text message from Mr. Clean, a brother Iron Warrior from Omaha (River City chapter) advising us that the radar actually looked clear.

He had also sent directions for the scenic route to Omaha, but as dog-tired as we were and with a threat of rain on the South Dakota side, we decided to once again stick with the super slabs.

Our cricket motel was right on east Hwy 50 and we continued in that direction. I am amazed at just how much farmland is in the United States! It seems that once we left the Bay Area, and with the exception of Nevada, we have seen nothing but orchards, crops or grasses this entire trip, and today is no different.

However we also see new sites. In Vermilion we see a large concrete dome, which is the Dakota Dome for the University of South Dakota. We head south on Hwy 29 and find ourselves traveling along the Lewis & Clark Trail for a good portion of the ride. And as we came upon the turn-off for the scenic route I seriously considered taking it. After all, Angel wouldn't know and by the time she figured it out would be too late. But I am still tired and decide not to be deceptive.

Besides, the reality is everything we are seeing is new to us anyway. And once again half the highway is only two lanes. The only real difference is not visiting or riding through those cute, quaint, little towns on those rural roads.

We are heading first to the Omaha Dillon H-D dealership for service. Mr. Clean has arranged for us to be taken care of, and we are extremely impressed with the care, customer service, and selection of goods. The employees there were friendly, helpful and just all around great. So if you are ever in Omaha and in need of assistance or just want to stop and shop, be sure to visit them!

By the time we got out of there we headed straight to Clean and Ajax' house down the road. They greeted us outside, despite the heat, as we pulled up. We were given time to rest and cool off before heading back out on the bikes with them to meet Strip, Taz and families for a good BBQ dinner. The company was even better than the food. We finally headed back to the house where more good conversation was in order, along with homemade cookies provided by the mother of another IWMC member.

All this and the friendly, tail-wagging Harley to keep us company too. We felt like we were in heaven. It wasn't just sharing someone's home and hospitality as opposed to a sterile hotel environment, it was the way we were welcomed and treated as though we were long-time friends or even family (you know, the good kind) that made it feel so wonderful. It was the perfect way to spend a day after the type we had yesterday.

Today's stats: 177 miles, 2.5 hours, + 75 miles for the dinner ride

South Dakota

AUGUST 12, 2010 - DAY 8 - HILL CITY TO YANKTON

This day has been dreaded since it was planned as it was going to be a very long day of riding mileage-wise. There was no way we could fathom everything the day held.

We really enjoyed our stay at The Lodge at Palmer Gulch, just outside Hill City. The towels we extra soft, the rooms clean, the beds comfy, they had a free bike washing station (including towels) and all the people we met were friendly. If someone spoke with you once they would say hello when they saw you again. And everyone enjoyed telling their stories of the road and listening to yours. Case in point: this morning when Angel went out to load her bike the gentleman from Maryland was outside cleaning our windshields for us.

We were excited but dreading the long day and it was already warm at 9 a.m., as evidenced by the beads of sweat that began while loading our bikes. Included in the ride itself were visits to Mt. Rushmore, The Badlands, Wounded Knee and the city of Burke for a photo op. At least that was the initial plan.

Our first stop was only 4 miles after we began, to take a picture with the National Park sign for Rushmore. Then another few miles and we were there. It is just magnificent. The entire area is. There these rolling hills / mountains covered with pines and these rocks jutting out in spots, shining in the sunlight. And then you look up at one of the large rock formations and there are the faces of four of the most important men in our countries history.

As we pulled out the town of Keystone was only a mile or two away. Here was our third stop, for gas, in only 9 miles. It was filled with bikers at all the bar & grills and looked like a great place to hang out. Too bad we didn't know that before. After we got gas we loaded up on Gatorade and took off. Just after rounding the next corner we saw it, the H-D dealership that we hadn't known about either. There was that brief second of hesitation, wanting to stop, but instead I accelerated. No way I was taking off my helmet and gear again so soon.

Now I should explain here that Angel and I are wearing full riding gear despite the weather. We decided we were gone a long time covering a lot of miles and we wanted to stay as safe as possible. We had thought we would put on our shorty helmets and just wear tank tops all around the Sturgis area, but changed our minds. So we are not those cool looking bikers riding around in shorts, tank tops and tennies ~ there is no helmet law in South Dakota and most aren't wearing one. But we are not the only ones in full gear or full helmets. There is a little bit of everything everywhere. Including the guy today on the interstate wearing only cut offs and tennies.

As we approach Rapid City things aren't looking quite the way they did on the AAA map,so we pull over and check my Google Maps and Angel's Tom Tom. We were just one block from our turn and Angel needed a pit stop anyway. We were on Main Street and I was impressed with their statues on every corner. It appeared they were of U.S. Presidents and other historically important figures. It was really neat.

Before we mounted back up I checked our mileage. This was our fourth stop, fourth time to go through the hassle of taking of and putting on the helmet and jacket. No leaving them on as it was already hot and the closest thing to cool was when you were moving. We had gone all of 30 miles!

Then we hit the road. But once we head out toward the Badlands we see a sign telling us there is roadwork for 125 miles. Time for a stop along the shoulder for a chat. We have over 400 miles to ride, it is at least 100 degrees and we are wearing chaps, jackets, helmets and gloves. So we decide to skip the ride to Wounded Knee, Burke and across the southern portion of the state on Hwy 18. For the sake of time we opt for the Super Slab, I-90.

We take off a little sad that we have to skip things that were on our "to do" list again. Then we pass a sign that tells us we are entering the Badlands. But only a few minutes later we pass one saying that we are leaving. Without knowing it, we are both unhappy and thinking that the one thing we decided to still do was so brief but we would be stuck on this desolate, heat-seeking road for quite a while. We ride on, out in the middle of nowhere, occasionally passing or being passed by other bikers.

With only nine miles to the Interstate we really enter the park. You can tell by the line of bikes waiting to pay their entrance fee. Coming to the park entrance has taken us a bit by surprise but also grateful that there is more to it. But as soon as we enter we stop at the shop, as does everyone else. Air conditioning feels so good. But so many bikers were there that they had run out of cold water. Doesn't matter, it's wet.

When we finally head out we are amazed at the rock formations and find the area strangely beautiful. As we climb and round a corner we see a scenic pull out with a crowd of people, cameras out, standing at the edge. I glance down at the grassland they overlooked and saw a herd of bison. I knew we wanted to stop as we had been looking for them. But I was in the lead and just hoped Angel had seen them too and rode on. She told me later that she felt the same way and was telling herself "picture memory".

As we got out of the park and to the interstate there was a sign about road work. To be honest, there has yet to be a road, highway or interstate in any state that hasn't had road work. But we do have to say that the friendliest and best looking DOT worker is still the one that was out on Hwy 88 in California! But I digress. We grab the frontage road and head east, riding faster than the cars beside us on the interstate and without other cars on the road.

We stop in Kubota for fuel and food. It wasn't all that crowded inside the restaurant but we overheard the waitresses complaining about all the work due to all the bikers. Don't think they usually have much business except every August.
We plan our next gas stop in Chamberlain, 125 miles down the road, and that will leave us a little over 150 to Yankton for the night. It is already 3 p.m. when we pull away.

With the pitcher of water we drank with lunch we make a pit stop about half way to Chamberlain. All the bikes at the gas station are parked on the shade side and everyone is drinking lots of water. The clerk is from Yankton and tells us we still have a long ride ahead. We notice that the clock says 5:20 p.m. and realize that we have crossed another time zone, losing an hour. Before we can jump back on the bikes a SD Highway Patrol officer stops by and Angel asks if we should stay on the side road. He advises us to hit the interstate and comments that he is happy to see us wearing helmets. He claims the road is back open, but we hadn't known it was closed. He explains a couple of bikes went down and they weren't wearing helmets. I knew what that meant and Angel found out when she asked if everyone was ok. I think it was a bit shocking to her to suddenly realize there were no survivors.

When we arrive in Chamberlain to gas up I realize I no longer have my ATM / credit card. After searching everything a few times I give a call to the Happy Chef back in Kubota (thank you Droid and Google!). Sure enough they had found it on the floor when it fell out of my pocket. Thankfully I had some cash, rooms were already reserved with the card, and I know the card, expiration and security numbers by heart. The manager said he would mail me the card to my hotel next week in Pennsylvania. I figured that would be the easiest since we will be there a whole three days.

We haven't seen much more than farmland out here, but we did pass places like the Tractor Museum, the South Dakota Hall of Fame, the University of South Dakota and signs for the Corn Palace. While still on the road I have decided that despite only seeing a portion of the state, and with no disrespect meant to South Dakotans, I could skip everything east of Rapid City.

Back on the super slab we keep pushing on. We watch a beautiful deep orange sunset in our mirrors, then pull off at a roadside restaurant in the middle of nowhere-ville, yet again. The young girl working there was frazzled like the earlier waitresses due to the influx of customers. It was just about closing time but they let us eat, she also provided us a pitcher of water, and we gave her a $5 tip, which was about 35%.

When we walked outside we were attacked by mosquitoes. I couldn't get my gear on fast enough, despite the night heat, before being bitten. I could still scratch my arm through my jacket but the bites to my ear and butt were just something I would have to ignore.

As we looked at the night sky we could see a large cloud to the northeast, lighting up non-stop with lightning. We weren't nearly as concerned about rain as we were the lightning. We jumped on the super slab and headed east, trying to get to our turn off to head south before the storm did.

It was a race but we won. But as we headed south on Hwy 81 we found another small, two lane road with no street lights and very few cars. Once the road had a couple of switchbacks and when we faced east again we could see the lightning. We were happy to keep it in our mirrors rather than in front of us.

We finally arrived in Yankton at 11 p.m. We were thrilled to find our room had an outer door so we could ride up and unload. Then we moved the bikes back to the front doors and under the overhang to stay dry for when the storm arrived. We noticed a couple of small crickets in our room and figured they'd gotten there when we opened the outer door. But after getting showered and settled in we noticed a lot more - on the walls, lampshades, and piled in a corner. We checked our beds and they were clean. But I think it was the cicada flying over Angels head that really bothered us. Well, her more than me. As she swatted at it with her pillow I was just glad it was on her side of the room. Nice friend, huh?

Once she knocked it down and out I asked if she wanted to pack up and go to another hotel, away from this one. She looked at me as if I were insane. We decided to just sleep with the covers over our heads tonight to keep them off us. We were too tired to really do much more.

Today's stats: 13 hours and 420 miles

The Black Hills

AUGUST 11, 2010 - DAY 7 - STURGIS AND BEYOND

Once again last one asleep and first one up. So will the excitement and activity
of each day ever seem normal so I can sleep? Probably not while I'm on this trip.

We decided this morning what all we wanted to do and where all that we wanted to ride today. We were going to try and be efficient, taking scenic routes and seeing sites while heading to Sturgis from where we are staying. But the number one thing is to get to Sturgis, so we put that at the top of the list and decide to make it a direct non-stop ride. We will do the scenic routes, towns and historic sites as time permits later in the day. We even plan what we think is the minimal day excursion.

As we arrive in Sturgis we aren't sure just where Main Street and the Rally are. No worries, because there are few cars on the road and everyone is going to the same place so we just follow all the other bikes. As we were stopped for a train at the entrance to town we look at each other with a big grin because we can hardly believe we are really here.

It is hot and there is no breeze. Between the weather and the the set up we both immediately think of the old Hollister Rallies. Bikes down the middle and sides of Main Street, the storefronts all filled with biker items, tattooing and restaurants. It spills out onto the outer streets as well but Main Street is where you cruise through to see and be seen, just like Hollister once was in it's heyday. Only this is on a much larger scale. And though it's crowded the sidewalks are passable. However, if you do encounter a sudden mass of people not moving just look in their direction and you will find some woman either topless or having her shirt airbrushed on. The woman behind me was frustrated and couldn't believe they would all stop and stare as though never having seen such a site!

But we did find the massive crowds at lunch. I'm not sure if everyone was inside because they were hungry or just hot. When we saw a gentleman sitting alone at a table we asked to join him. Turns out he rode out here alone from New Jersey and was happy to have company.

We are trying to be quick and still see as much as we can, but time flies and we never even finish Main Street before we decide we best head out if we want to see anything else. As we reach Deadwood it isn't nearly as crowded as earlier in the day, but we still couldn't find street parking and had to pay in a lot. Not only are there historic sites but the entire town itself is a national historic site. We walk up one side and down the other taking pictures and doing a few stop and shops, including the H-D shop. I know, you are shocked!

Neither one of us admit it but we are hot and tired at this point. Instead we plan to continue on to Custer and do the short loop, but along the way we stop first at the Crazy Horse monument. We immediately decide not to take the bus trip up the mountain, but go inside the visitor center. It is large with an awful lot to see for two tired, exhausted women who've been in the sun all day. By the time we are done we are really dragging. We grab a bottle of water and decide to head for the Lodge. Besides, we also realize it's already 7 p.m.

We quickly change, throw our hats back on and head to the restaurant for dinner before it closes. Seems like not as many people are out tonight or perhaps they just are't back yet. But everyone is still laughing and sharing stories and friendly. It's fun meeting and seeing people from so many different places.

We head to the room to pass out. We need the rest as tomorrow is our longest riding day, east across all of South Dakota.

Today's stats: 10 hours and 141 miles

Wyoming to South Dakota

AUGUST 10, 2010 - DAY 6 - GILLETTE, WY TO HILL CITY, SD

Today was opposite day. When I awoke at five I tried to go back to sleep because Angel was sleeping in. Didn't work. By 5:30 a.m. I was up getting dressed. I think I was just too wound up thinking about my bike and wondering what was going to be the outcome today.

Angel woke up just as I was heading down to breakfast so we decided to take the laundry with us. The thought of freshly cleaned smelling clothes seemed exciting. Such is the life on the road!

When we got to the H-D dealership we found a lot of other bikers there as well. Some for the obligatory stop and shop, others with service issues, and some others actually buying new bikes.

Now as I am sure you can tell by now I do like the H-D brand. However, sometimes you just have to go elsewhere to get a straight answer rather than the corporate one. So after much delay I hopped on my bike and rode it around the corner. The mechanic immediately took it inside, checked it out, topped off my oil and sent me on my way for under $50.

So with all this delay, having to finally pack up, eat and head out, we didn't hit the road till three. Definitely not how we planned it. This was going to be our early morning on the road with only a short ride to our destination but so much to do and see along the way.

We did get some sights in though. Devil's Tower is amazing to look at as it just pops up in the middle of a field. And the town of Sundance looked as though it was inhabited by bikers only. This is where William Bonner grew up and got his name, the Sundance Kid. Even here the small H-D dealership was thriving with business.

But then there was Deadwood and Hill City. The only thing more amazing than seeing all the thousands upon thousands of bikes lining the streets was riding the roads through the Black Hills. And that is because all you saw were bikes. It was funny to realize that if you actually saw a car on the road it looked out of place. But even when Hollister had the rallies and bikers came from all over there weren't this many bikes. It's as though in this entire region everyone is some sort of biker.

Because of our late start we didn't spend time visiting these places, deciding to leave it for tomorrow. So we head out toward Mt. Rushmore and our stop for these next two nights, The Lodge at Palmer Gulch. It's out in the middle of nowhere so has it's own town like setting. There's the Lodge, where our ground floor room looks out onto the parking lot and our bikes. The perfect biker room. It's also a KOA so there are campsites and cabins. Then there's the restaurant / bar, and a small strip of shops including pizza and ice cream which seem to be everywhere.

Everyone is gathered round, sharing stories, finding common ground with our love for riding no matter what we ride or where we live. Life is good today. But with the late start comes a late night and we need to sleep. Got to try to have an early day tomorrow as there is so much to do for one day: Mt. Rushmore, stops and shops in Deadwood and Hill City, and of course the mecca of motorcycle mania, Sturgis itself.

Today's Stats: 5 hours and 177 miles.